Dog-Proofing Your Home: A Room-by-Room Safety Guide

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Bringing a new dog home — especially a puppy — is like inviting a tiny, furry toddler with the curiosity of a detective and the jaw strength of a pair of pliers into your living space. Everything is new, everything must be investigated, and everything that fits in their mouth will go in their mouth.

Dog-proofing your home is not about creating a sterile, joy-free environment. It is about identifying and removing hazards that could injure or poison your dog, so they can explore safely while you enjoy peace of mind. Think of it as childproofing with teeth.

This room-by-room guide covers every common hazard, so you can prepare your home before your new dog arrives. For a complete list of supplies you will need, read our essential supplies checklist for new puppy owners.

Before You Start: The Dog’s-Eye View

The most effective way to dog-proof your home is to get down on the floor and look at every room from your dog’s perspective. Literally. Get on your hands and knees and crawl through each room. You will be amazed at what you notice:

• Electrical cords hanging at nose level
• Small objects under furniture that could be swallowed
• Cabinet handles within reach
• Low shelves with tempting items
• Gaps behind appliances where a dog could get stuck

Your dog will find every hazard you miss. The goal is to find them first.

The Kitchen: Ground Zero for Hazards

The kitchen is the most dangerous room in the house for dogs. It contains toxic foods, sharp objects, cleaning chemicals, hot surfaces, and the irresistible smells that draw dogs in like magnets.

Toxic Foods to Secure

According to the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center, the following common foods are toxic to dogs and must be kept out of reach:

• Chocolate — especially dark chocolate and baker’s chocolate. The theobromine in chocolate is toxic to dogs. Even small amounts of dark chocolate can cause serious illness.
• Grapes and raisins — can cause acute kidney failure in dogs. Even a small quantity can be dangerous.
• Onions and garlic — damage red blood cells and can cause anemia. All forms (raw, cooked, powdered) are toxic.
• Xylitol — an artificial sweetener found in sugar-free gum, some peanut butters, sugar-free candies, and baked goods. Extremely toxic to dogs and can cause life-threatening hypoglycemia and liver failure.
• Macadamia nuts — cause weakness, vomiting, and tremors.
• Alcohol — even small amounts can cause dangerous drops in blood sugar and blood pressure.
• Caffeine — coffee, tea, energy drinks, and caffeine pills are all dangerous.
• Cooked bones — can splinter and cause choking, internal punctures, or bowel obstructions. Raw bones are generally safer but should still be supervised.
• Avocado — the persin in avocado can cause vomiting and diarrhea.

Action items:

• Move toxic foods to upper cabinets or behind childproof locks
• Never leave food unattended on counters (dogs can counter-surf)
• Secure the trash can with a locking lid or keep it in a closed cabinet — dogs are expert garbage divers
• Check all peanut butter labels for xylitol before using as a treat

Kitchen Safety Measures

• Install childproof locks on lower cabinets that contain cleaning supplies, trash bags, or food
• Store knives and sharp utensils in drawers with childproof locks
• Keep the dishwasher closed — dogs can lick sharp knives and be cut
• Block access to hot appliances (oven, stove) with baby gates if needed
• Unplug small appliances when not in use and secure cords
• Keep all cleaning products in locked cabinets — many are corrosive or toxic

The Living Room: The Chew Zone

The living room is where your dog will spend much of their time, and it is filled with tempting chewable items.

Electrical Cords

Exposed electrical cords are one of the most dangerous hazards for puppies and chewing dogs. A dog that chews through a live cord can suffer electrical burns to the mouth, electrocution, or pulmonary edema (fluid in the lungs).

Solutions:

• Bundle and secure cords with cord covers or cable management systems
• Run cords behind furniture or through cord channels
• Use bitter apple spray on exposed cords as a deterrent
• Unplug cords that are not in use
• Consider wireless alternatives where possible

Small Objects and Choking Hazards

Dogs explore with their mouths, and puppies swallow things that adult dogs would not. Common choking hazards include:

• Children’s toys (especially small pieces like LEGO)
• Hair ties and rubber bands
• Coins
• Buttons
• Socks and underwear (a surprisingly common cause of bowel obstructions)
• Remote control batteries
• Earbuds and headphones

Action items:

• Keep small items off the floor and low surfaces
• Establish a household rule: nothing small goes on the coffee table
• Check under cushions and furniture regularly for dropped items
• If you have children, teach them to keep small toys in their rooms with doors closed

Furniture and Decorations

• Secure tall bookshelves and furniture to the wall (an enthusiastic dog can topple them)
• Remove or raise fragile decorations from low shelves and tables
• Cover or move delicate upholstery during the puppy phase — or accept that it will be tested
• Roll up or remove valuable rugs until your dog is housetrained

Windows and Blinds

• Secure blind cords out of reach (strangulation hazard)
• Ensure window screens are secure — dogs can push through loose screens and fall
• Consider cord-free blinds or cordless alternatives

The Bathroom: The Chemical Cabinet

The bathroom contains concentrated chemicals, medications, and small objects that are all dangerous to dogs.

Medications

Medications are one of the top causes of pet poisoning calls to the ASPCA. Even common over-the-counter medications can be lethal to dogs:

• NSAIDs (ibuprofen, naproxen) — can cause kidney failure and stomach ulcers
• Acetaminophen (Tylenol) — can cause liver failure and damage to red blood cells
• Antidepressants — often flavored and attractive to dogs
• ADHD medications — stimulants that can cause tremors, seizures, and cardiac problems
• Vitamins (especially those containing iron or vitamin D) — can be toxic in large quantities

Action items:

• Store all medications in a closed cabinet, preferably with a lock
• Never leave pill bottles on the counter, nightstand, or in bags on the floor
• Keep purses and backpacks (which often contain medications) off the floor or in a closed closet
• Pick up any dropped pills immediately

Cleaning Products and Personal Care Items

• Store all cleaning products in locked or high cabinets
• Keep the toilet lid closed (toilet bowl cleaners are toxic, and small dogs can drown)
• Secure razors, nail files, and other sharp personal care items
• Keep dental floss, cotton swabs, and hair products out of reach
• Close the bathroom door when not in use — this is the simplest solution

The Bedroom: The Sock Graveyard

Bedrooms seem harmless, but they contain some of the most commonly ingested foreign objects.

Clothing and Textiles

Socks, underwear, and clothing items are among the most common causes of intestinal blockages in dogs. Dogs are attracted to items that carry their owner’s scent, and they will swallow things that seem impossible.

Action items:

• Keep laundry in closed hampers (not open baskets)
• Do not leave socks, underwear, or shoes on the floor
• Close closet doors
• Secure any sewing supplies (needles and thread are extremely dangerous)

Other Bedroom Hazards

• Keep jewelry, hair ties, and small accessories in closed containers
• Store shoes in closets or on elevated racks (shoes are prime chewing targets)
• Secure charging cables (see electrical cord advice above)
• If your dog will be in the bedroom, ensure there are no gaps between the bed frame and wall where they could get stuck

The Garage and Laundry Room: The Danger Zone

The garage is arguably the most hazardous area of the home for dogs.

Automotive Products

• Antifreeze (ethylene glycol) — tastes sweet to dogs and is extremely lethal. Even a small amount can cause fatal kidney failure. Switch to propylene glycol-based antifreeze, which is less toxic. Clean up any spills immediately.
• Motor oil, gasoline, and brake fluid — all toxic if ingested or if a dog walks through them and licks their paws.
• Windshield washer fluid — contains methanol, which is toxic.

Other Garage Hazards

• Rat poison, mouse traps, and insecticides — all highly toxic. Use pet-safe alternatives or keep them in areas completely inaccessible to your dog.
• Fertilizers and herbicides — many contain ingredients toxic to dogs. Store in locked cabinets.
• Sharp tools and hardware — store on high shelves or in closed tool chests.
• Paint and solvents — toxic if ingested. Store in sealed, elevated locations.

Best practice: Keep the garage door closed and consider a baby gate if the laundry room connects to the main living area. The garage should generally be off-limits for unsupervised dogs.

Laundry Room

• Keep the laundry detergent pods out of reach — their bright colors and squishy texture make them attractive to dogs, and they contain concentrated chemicals that can cause chemical burns.
• Keep dryer sheets and fabric softener secured — toxic if ingested.
• Close the washer and dryer doors — small dogs can climb in.
• Secure laundry baskets — see the sock discussion above.

The Yard: The Outdoor Obstacle Course

If you have a yard, it needs dog-proofing too.

Fencing

• Check for gaps, loose boards, and areas where a dog could dig under the fence
• Ensure the fence is tall enough for your specific breed — some dogs are impressive jumpers and climbers
• Check gates for proper latches that a clever dog cannot nudge open
• Fill any holes along the fence line

Toxic Plants

Many common garden and landscaping plants are toxic to dogs. According to the ASPCA, common toxic outdoor plants include:

• Azaleas and rhododendrons
• Sago palms (extremely toxic — even small amounts can be fatal)
• Oleander
• Lily of the valley
• Tulip and daffodil bulbs
• Foxglove
• Chrysanthemums
• Yew

Action items:

• Identify all plants in your yard and cross-reference with the ASPCA’s toxic plant database
• Remove highly toxic plants or fence them off
• Supervise your dog in the yard until you are confident they do not eat plants

Garden and Lawn Chemicals

• Use pet-safe fertilizers, herbicides, and pest control products
• Keep dogs off freshly treated lawns for the recommended waiting period
• Store all garden chemicals in a locked shed or garage
• Compost bins should be enclosed and inaccessible to dogs (decomposing food can harbor toxic mold)

Pools and Water Features

• Fence around pools or install a pool alarm
• Teach your dog where the pool exit is (stairs or ramp)
• Never assume your dog can swim — not all breeds are natural swimmers
• Cover hot tubs and spas when not in use
• Empty kiddie pools after use to prevent unsupervised access

Creating Safe Spaces

Dog-proofing is not just about removing hazards — it is also about creating safe spaces where your dog can relax and feel secure.

The Crate

A properly introduced crate is the safest space in your home for your dog. When you cannot directly supervise, a crate prevents your dog from getting into trouble. Read our puppy crate training guide for step-by-step instructions on making crate training a positive experience.

Baby Gates

Baby gates are your best friend during the dog-proofing phase. Use them to:

• Block access to rooms that are not fully dog-proofed
• Keep your dog in a safe area when you cannot supervise
• Prevent access to stairs (especially for puppies)
• Create a defined puppy zone during house training

Designated Dog Area

Set up a specific area in your home as your dog’s zone — their crate, bed, water bowl, and toys. This gives them a sense of territory and a place to retreat when overwhelmed. For bed recommendations, see our best dog beds roundup. Having a go-to spot helps with training and provides security during the adjustment period.

The Dog-Proofing Checklist

Use this quick-reference checklist to audit your home:

• All toxic foods stored in upper cabinets or behind locks
• Trash cans secured with locking lids
• Cleaning products in locked cabinets
• Medications stored in closed, high cabinets
• Electrical cords covered, bundled, or secured
• Small objects (coins, hair ties, children’s toys) picked up
• Laundry in closed hampers
• Toilet lids closed
• Toxic plants identified and removed or fenced
• Antifreeze stored securely with spills cleaned up
• Rat poison and insecticides removed or made inaccessible
• Yard fencing inspected for gaps and escape routes
• Baby gates installed as needed
• Crate set up and comfortable

Emergency Preparedness

Despite your best dog-proofing efforts, emergencies can happen. Be prepared:

• ASPCA Animal Poison Control: 888-426-4435 (a consultation fee applies)
• Pet Poison Helpline: 855-764-7661
• Your regular veterinarian’s number — keep it in your phone and posted on the refrigerator
• Nearest emergency veterinary clinic — know the location and hours
• Pet first aid kit — keep one stocked and accessible

For a complete overview of what to expect and how to handle the first days, read our first week with your new puppy guide.

You Might Also Like

• Essential Supplies for Your New Puppy — Everything you need before bringing puppy home
• First Week With Your New Puppy — Day-by-day guidance for the critical first week
• Puppy Crate Training Guide — Create a safe space with proper crate training
• Puppy Socialization Guide — After safety, socialization is the next priority
• Best Dog Beds — Comfortable beds for your dog’s designated space
• KONG Classic Review — Give your dog something safe to chew instead of your furniture
• Dog Grooming Tips — Start grooming habits in a safely prepared space

Frequently Asked Questions