Your First Week With a New Puppy: A Day-by-Day Survival Guide

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Bringing Your Puppy Home

Congratulations on your new puppy. The first week together sets the foundation for your entire relationship, so it pays to be prepared. This day-by-day guide will walk you through exactly what to expect and how to handle the most common challenges new puppy parents face.

The American Kennel Club notes that the first few days are the most critical for establishing trust, routine, and good habits. What you do this week will shape your puppy’s behavior and confidence for months and years to come.

Before Pickup Day: Preparation Checklist

Before your puppy arrives, make sure you have these essentials ready:

• Crate sized so your puppy can stand, turn around, and lie down (with a divider for growing)
• Food and water bowls (stainless steel or ceramic, not plastic which can harbor bacteria)
• Puppy food recommended by your breeder or vet (see our guide to choosing dog food for details on reading labels and understanding AAFCO nutritional standards)
• Collar, ID tag, and leash
• Enzymatic cleaner for inevitable accidents (Nature’s Miracle is the gold standard)
• Chew toys like the KONG Classic for teething relief and mental stimulation
• Puppy pads as a backup for housetraining
• Treats (small, soft training treats for positive reinforcement)
• Baby gates to block off rooms and create safe zones
• Bitter apple spray to deter chewing on furniture and cords

Puppy-Proofing Your Home

Puppy-proofing is not optional. Puppies explore the world with their mouths, and an unproofed home is full of hazards. Go through every room your puppy will access and address these risks:

Electrical cords. Bundle cords together and run them behind furniture or through cord covers. A chewed electrical cord can cause severe burns or electrocution. Bitter apple spray on exposed cords adds a deterrent layer.

Toxic plants. Many common houseplants are toxic to dogs, including lilies, pothos, sago palm, and aloe vera. The ASPCA maintains a comprehensive list of toxic and non-toxic plants. Move toxic plants to rooms your puppy cannot access or replace them with pet-safe alternatives.

Small objects. Anything small enough to fit in your puppy’s mouth is a choking hazard or intestinal blockage risk. Pick up children’s toys, socks, hair ties, coins, and any other small items from the floor. Get into the habit of scanning rooms at puppy eye level.

Medications and chemicals. Store all medications, cleaning products, and chemicals in closed cabinets. Many human medications, including common over-the-counter drugs like ibuprofen and acetaminophen, are toxic to dogs at very small doses. The AVMA recommends treating your home like you would for a crawling toddler.

Trash cans. Use trash cans with secure lids, or store them inside a cabinet. Dogs are attracted to food waste, and ingesting bones, wrappers, or spoiled food can cause serious digestive emergencies.

Stairs and ledges. Block access to stairs, balconies, and elevated surfaces. Puppies have poor depth perception and uncoordinated bodies. A fall can result in broken bones or head injuries.

Days 1-2: The Adjustment Period

Your puppy has just left everything it has ever known: its mother, siblings, familiar scents, and established routines. Expect some whining, especially at night. Keep things calm and quiet. Resist the urge to invite everyone over to meet the new puppy. Overstimulation makes the adjustment harder.

During the first 48 hours, focus on three things: safety, bathroom habits, and establishing that your home is a secure place. Let your puppy explore at their own pace. Sit on the floor and let them come to you rather than picking them up constantly.

Feeding: Stick to whatever food the breeder or shelter was using. Sudden diet changes cause digestive upset. If you plan to switch foods, wait at least two weeks and transition gradually over 7 to 10 days by mixing increasing proportions of the new food with the old. Look for foods that meet AAFCO nutritional adequacy standards for growth, which ensures the formula provides complete nutrition for puppies.

Housetraining: Take your puppy outside every 1 to 2 hours, after meals, after naps, and after play sessions. Praise enthusiastically when they eliminate outside. Accidents will happen. Clean them up with enzymatic cleaner and move on. Never punish a puppy for accidents because they do not understand the connection between the punishment and the act, and it damages the trust you are trying to build.

A general guideline for bladder control: puppies can hold their bladder for approximately one hour per month of age, plus one. An eight-week-old puppy (two months) can hold it for roughly three hours maximum, and that is when they are resting. During active play, that window is much shorter.

Sleeping: Place the crate in your bedroom so your puppy can sense your presence. A warm water bottle wrapped in a towel and a ticking clock can mimic littermates and help your puppy settle. Expect to wake up once or twice during the night for bathroom breaks. When your puppy whines at night, wait for a brief pause in the whining before opening the crate so you do not reward the vocalizing.

Days 3-4: Establishing Routines

Dogs thrive on routine, and the sooner you establish one, the faster your puppy will adjust. By day three, start establishing consistent times for meals, potty breaks, play, and naps.

Meal schedule: Puppies under 6 months typically eat three meals per day. Feed at the same times each day and pick up the bowl after 15 minutes. This creates predictable bathroom times, prevents grazing, and teaches your puppy that food comes on a schedule rather than being available whenever they want it.

Crate training: Make the crate a positive place by feeding meals inside it and tossing treats in throughout the day. Never use the crate as punishment. Start with short periods (10 to 15 minutes) with the door closed and gradually increase duration. For a detailed step-by-step approach, see our complete puppy crate training guide.

The goal of crate training is to create a den-like space where your puppy feels safe and relaxed. Most dogs, once properly crate trained, will voluntarily go to their crate to rest. A properly crate-trained dog is also much safer during car travel, easier to housetrain, and less likely to develop destructive behaviors when left alone.

Nap schedule: Puppies need 18 to 20 hours of sleep per day. If your puppy is cranky, nippy, or hyperactive, they are probably overtired. Enforce nap times in the crate, typically one to two hours of napping after every 30 to 60 minutes of activity.

Socialization window: Between 3 and 14 weeks of age, puppies are in a critical socialization window. According to the AKC, experiences during this period shape your dog’s temperament for life. Introduce your puppy to different surfaces (carpet, tile, grass, gravel), sounds (vacuum, doorbell, traffic), and gentle handling by different family members.

Keep experiences positive and never force your puppy into a situation that frightens them. Avoid dog parks and public areas where unvaccinated dogs may have been until your puppy has completed their vaccination series, typically around 16 weeks of age.

Socialization Timeline: Week by Week

Weeks 8-10 (first two weeks home): Focus on household sounds, surfaces, and handling. Introduce the car, the crate, and gentle grooming (touching paws, ears, and mouth).

Weeks 10-12: Begin controlled exposure to friendly, vaccinated adult dogs. Introduce new people of different ages and appearances. Practice being in a carrier or stroller in outdoor settings where your puppy does not need to touch the ground.

Weeks 12-14: Expand environments while keeping experiences positive. Visit pet-friendly stores where your puppy can ride in the cart. Introduce umbrellas, hats, and other novel objects. Continue handling exercises to prepare for grooming and vet exams.

Weeks 14-16: As vaccination series completes, gradually introduce controlled group settings like puppy socialization classes led by certified trainers.

Days 5-6: Building the Bond

By now, your puppy should be showing more of their personality. You will start to see glimpses of the dog they will become: playful or contemplative, bold or cautious, cuddly or independent. Start these simple training exercises:

Name recognition: Say your puppy’s name and immediately reward with a treat when they look at you. Repeat throughout the day. Never use their name in a negative context. You want your puppy to associate their name with good things and the expectation that looking at you leads to rewards.

Sit: Hold a treat above your puppy’s nose and slowly move it back over their head. Most puppies will naturally sit as they look up. Mark the moment with a “yes” and reward. Keep sessions to 3 to 5 minutes. Puppies have short attention spans, and ending on a success keeps training positive.

Handling exercises: Gently touch your puppy’s paws, ears, mouth, and tail while giving treats. This prepares them for grooming and veterinary exams later in life. Spread these exercises throughout the day in short sessions rather than doing them all at once.

Recall basics: In a small, enclosed space, call your puppy’s name followed by “come” in an excited tone. When they reach you, reward generously with treats and praise. Never call your puppy to you for something they perceive as unpleasant (like a bath or crate time). Build the association that coming to you always pays off.

Day 7: Veterinary Visit

Schedule your first veterinary visit within the first week. This is one of the most important appointments of your puppy’s life, so come prepared. Your vet will perform a physical exam, review vaccination schedules, discuss parasite prevention, and answer your questions. Bring any medical records from the breeder or shelter.

What to Expect at the First Vet Visit

The veterinarian will conduct a thorough physical examination including:

• Weight and body condition assessment to ensure your puppy is growing properly
• Heart and lung auscultation to check for congenital heart murmurs or respiratory issues
• Abdominal palpation to check for hernias or organ abnormalities
• Eye, ear, and dental examination for signs of infection or congenital defects
• Skin and coat inspection for parasites, fungal infections, or allergies
• Orthopedic check of joints and limbs for developmental concerns

Key topics to discuss with your vet:

• Vaccination schedule (typically distemper, parvovirus, adenovirus at 8, 12, and 16 weeks, and rabies at 12 to 16 weeks depending on local laws)
• Spay or neuter timeline (recommendations vary by breed and size; discuss the optimal timing for your specific puppy)
• Flea, tick, and heartworm prevention (the AVMA recommends starting prevention early)
• Nutrition and feeding amounts based on your puppy’s breed and current weight
• Any concerns about behavior or health you have observed during the first week

Ask your vet about pet insurance while your puppy is young and healthy. Pre-existing conditions are typically not covered, so enrolling early gives you the broadest coverage.

Essential Supplies: What You Actually Need

After the first week, you will have a better sense of your puppy’s personality and needs. Here are the supplies we recommend based on real-world testing:

For chewing and teething: The KONG Classic is the single best investment for a new puppy. Stuff it with peanut butter (make sure it does not contain xylitol), freeze it, and your teething puppy will have a safe, productive outlet for 20 to 30 minutes. Our comparison of KONG vs Nylabone breaks down when each toy is the better choice.

For mealtime: Stainless steel bowls are the most hygienic option. Slow-feeder bowls are excellent for puppies that gulp their food, reducing the risk of choking and bloat. Elevated feeders are not recommended for puppies.

For cleanup: Keep multiple bottles of enzymatic cleaner on hand (not regular household cleaners, which do not break down the proteins in urine and leave a scent that attracts your puppy back to the same spot). Paper towels, old towels, and a dedicated laundry basket for puppy-soiled items will save your sanity.

For sleep and safety: A properly sized crate, a washable crate pad, and a baby gate or two are non-negotiable. Add a white noise machine if your puppy is sensitive to household sounds at night.

Common First-Week Challenges

Crying at night is completely normal. Your puppy is experiencing separation from their litter for the first time, and nighttime amplifies their anxiety. Stay consistent with crate training and avoid letting your puppy out of the crate when they are whining, as this rewards the behavior. Wait for a brief pause in whining, then take them out for a quiet bathroom break with minimal interaction, and return them to the crate. Most puppies sleep through the night within one to two weeks.

Biting and nipping is how puppies explore the world and is a completely natural behavior, not aggression. Redirect to appropriate chew toys immediately. If your puppy bites your hands during play, say “ouch” in a calm voice and disengage for 10 seconds. Consistency is key. Every family member needs to respond the same way. Avoid rough play with hands, as this teaches your puppy that hands are toys.

Diarrhea in the first few days can be caused by stress and diet changes and is common in newly rehomed puppies. If it lasts more than 48 hours, is accompanied by lethargy or vomiting, contains blood, or your puppy is not drinking water, contact your veterinarian immediately.

Refusing to eat for the first day or two is normal and usually resolves as your puppy settles in. If your puppy has not eaten for more than 24 hours, try warming the food slightly to release its aroma, or add a small amount of warm water to kibble. If appetite does not return within 48 hours, consult your vet.

Zoomies and hyperactivity are normal bursts of energy that typically indicate your puppy needs either more exercise or more sleep. Puppies often get the zoomies right before they crash for a nap. If zoomies are happening constantly, your puppy probably needs more enforced nap time in the crate.

The Three-Three-Three Rule

Many trainers and rescues reference the “three-three-three rule” for new dogs:

• Three days: Your puppy is overwhelmed, may not eat well, and is learning the basics of your home.
• Three weeks: Your puppy starts to settle into a routine, shows more personality, and begins testing boundaries.
• Three months: Your puppy feels fully at home, has bonded with family members, and has established predictable behavior patterns.

Be patient through each phase. The work you invest in the first week pays dividends for years. If you are looking for activities to enjoy with your growing puppy down the road, check out our guide to hiking with your dog for when they are old enough to hit the trails.

You Have Got This

The first week is exhausting, but it goes by fast. Every positive interaction, every patient redirection, and every consistent routine is building the foundation for a wonderful relationship. Be patient with yourself and your puppy. You are both learning.

Remember that millions of dog owners have navigated this exact same week and come out the other side with a well-adjusted, happy companion. The sleepless nights, the accidents on the carpet, and the chewed-up shoes are temporary. The bond you are building is permanent.

If you need product recommendations for any stage of puppyhood, check out our best toys for aggressive chewers roundup and our growing library of breed profiles for breed-specific advice.

You and your puppy are going to be just fine.