Best Dog Grooming Tips for a Healthy, Happy Pup

Quick Answer: Good grooming isn’t just about looks — it’s a cornerstone of your dog’s overall health. At minimum, brush your dog 1-3 times per week (daily for long coats), bathe every 4-8 weeks, trim nails every 2-4 weeks, clean ears weekly, and brush teeth at least 3 times per week. Regular grooming helps you catch skin issues, parasites, and health problems early.

Every dog owner knows the look: your pup just rolled in something mysterious in the backyard, their nails are clicking on the hardwood like tap shoes, and that “doggy smell” has officially taken over the couch. Grooming time.

But grooming isn’t just about keeping your dog presentable for company. Regular grooming is one of the most important things you can do for your dog’s health. It keeps their skin and coat healthy, prevents painful matting, catches parasites and skin issues early, and strengthens the bond between you and your dog.

Whether you’re a new dog owner or you’ve had pups your whole life, this guide covers everything you need to know about grooming your dog at home — from brushing and bathing to the tasks most owners dread (yes, we’re talking about nail trimming). If you’re just starting out, our first week with your new puppy guide covers how to introduce grooming habits from day one.

Brushing: The Foundation of Good Grooming

If you do only one grooming task regularly, make it brushing. Regular brushing removes loose hair, distributes natural oils throughout the coat, prevents matting, and gives you a chance to check for lumps, bumps, parasites, and skin irritation.

How Often to Brush

The right brushing frequency depends entirely on your dog’s coat type:

• Short, smooth coats (Beagle, Boxer, Doberman): Once per week with a bristle brush or grooming glove
• Short, dense coats (Labrador Retriever, German Shepherd): 2-3 times per week with an undercoat rake or deshedding tool
• Medium-length coats (Golden Retriever, Australian Shepherd): 3-4 times per week with a slicker brush and comb
• Long coats (Shih Tzu, Yorkshire Terrier, Maltese): Daily brushing with a pin brush and detangling comb
• Curly/wiry coats (Poodle, Schnauzer): Every 2-3 days with a slicker brush; professional grooming every 4-6 weeks for haircuts

Choosing the Right Brush

Using the wrong brush is like using the wrong tool for a job — it either won’t work or it’ll cause damage. Here’s a quick guide:

Slicker brush: Fine wire bristles on a flat or curved base. Excellent for removing mats, tangles, and loose fur from medium to long coats. Use with light pressure to avoid scratching the skin.

Bristle brush: Natural or synthetic bristles best for short, smooth coats. Distributes oils and removes surface dirt.

Pin brush: Rounded pins that glide through long, silky coats without pulling. Works like a human hairbrush.

Undercoat rake: Designed to penetrate thick double coats and remove loose undercoat fur without damaging the topcoat. Essential for breeds like Huskies, German Shepherds, and Golden Retrievers.

Deshedding tool: Tools like the Furminator Undercoat Deshedding Tool are designed specifically to remove loose undercoat hair. They can remove up to 90% of loose fur and are incredibly effective for heavy shedders. However, don’t overuse them — once or twice per week during shedding season is sufficient. See our full Furminator review for breed-specific guidance.

Grooming glove: A rubber glove with nubs that removes loose hair during petting. Great for dogs who dislike traditional brushing.

Brushing Technique

1. Start at the head and work toward the tail, following the direction of hair growth
2. Use gentle, even strokes — pressing too hard can irritate the skin or cause brush burn
3. For mats and tangles, hold the base of the mat close to the skin and work it out from the ends first. Never pull or rip through mats, as this is painful
4. Check for problem areas: behind the ears, under the armpits, around the collar area, and between the toes — these are common matting spots
5. Make it positive: talk to your dog, offer treats, and keep sessions short (10-15 minutes) if your dog is new to brushing

Dealing with Mats

Severe mats can restrict blood flow and trap moisture against the skin, creating breeding grounds for bacteria and parasites. If a mat is too tight to work out with a brush and detangling spray, don’t try to cut it out with scissors — it’s far too easy to cut skin hidden beneath the mat. Instead, use a mat splitter tool or see a professional groomer.

Bathing: Getting It Right

Many dog owners either bathe too often (stripping natural oils) or not often enough (allowing buildup and odor). Finding the right balance is key.

How Often to Bathe

Most dogs do well with a bath every 4-8 weeks. However, several factors influence the ideal frequency:

• Coat type: Dogs with oilier coats (Basset Hounds, Cocker Spaniels) may need more frequent bathing. Dogs with water-resistant double coats (Labs, Goldens) should be bathed less frequently to preserve their coat’s natural protection.
• Activity level: A dog that swims, rolls in mud, or plays in the dirt regularly will need more baths.
• Skin conditions: Dogs with certain skin conditions may need medicated baths on a schedule prescribed by their vet.
• Indoor vs. outdoor living: Dogs that spend more time outdoors generally need more frequent bathing.

Choosing the Right Dog Shampoo

Always use a shampoo formulated specifically for dogs. A dog’s skin has a different pH (around 6.2-7.4) than human skin (around 5.5), so human shampoos can disrupt the acid mantle and lead to dryness, irritation, and increased vulnerability to infections.

General purpose: A gentle, soap-free dog shampoo works for most dogs. Look for natural ingredients like oatmeal, aloe vera, and coconut oil.

Sensitive skin: Hypoallergenic, fragrance-free formulas are best for dogs with sensitive or allergy-prone skin.

Medicated: Shampoos containing chlorhexidine, benzoyl peroxide, or ketoconazole are used for specific skin conditions. Use these only as directed by your veterinarian.

Puppy shampoo: Tear-free formulas are gentler and safer for young puppies.

Bath Time Step-by-Step

1. Brush before bathing. Remove tangles and loose hair first — water tightens mats and makes them nearly impossible to remove.
2. Use lukewarm water. Too hot or too cold makes the experience unpleasant. Test with the inside of your wrist.
3. Protect the ears. Place cotton balls loosely in your dog’s ears to prevent water from entering the ear canal. Water in the ears is a leading cause of ear infections.
4. Wet thoroughly. Soak the coat all the way to the skin, starting at the neck and working back. Avoid spraying directly on the face.
5. Apply shampoo and massage. Work the shampoo into a lather, massaging it through the coat and down to the skin. Pay extra attention to greasy areas and any spots that are particularly dirty.
6. Rinse completely. This is the most important step. Shampoo residue left on the skin causes itching and irritation. Rinse until the water runs completely clear.
7. Apply conditioner (optional). For dogs with longer coats, a conditioner helps prevent tangles and adds moisture.
8. Dry thoroughly. Towel-dry first, then use a blow dryer on a low, cool setting if your dog tolerates it. Make sure the undercoat is fully dry — moisture trapped near the skin can lead to hot spots and fungal infections.

Making Bath Time Easier

Many dogs dislike baths, but you can make the experience less stressful:

• Use a non-slip mat in the tub to help your dog feel secure
• Spread peanut butter on the tub wall as a distraction (the “lick pad” technique)
• Start bathing young — puppies who are bathed regularly accept it more easily as adults
• Keep your energy calm and positive
• Reward with treats after the bath

Nail Trimming: The Task Every Owner Dreads

Nail trimming is probably the most anxiety-inducing grooming task for both dogs and owners. But overgrown nails are more than a cosmetic issue — they can cause pain, affect your dog’s posture and gait, and even curl into the paw pad.

When to Trim

A good rule of thumb: if you can hear your dog’s nails on hard floors, they’re too long. When standing, the nails should just barely touch the ground or hover slightly above it.

Most dogs need nail trims every 2-4 weeks, though dogs that walk frequently on pavement may wear their nails down naturally and need less frequent trimming.

Tools for Nail Trimming

Guillotine clippers: A blade slides across to cut the nail. Good for small to medium dogs with thinner nails.

Scissor/plier-style clippers: Two blades close together like scissors. More powerful and better for large dogs with thick nails.

Nail grinders (Dremel): A rotating grinding surface files the nail down gradually. Many dogs and owners prefer grinders because they reduce the risk of cutting the quick and create smooth edges. However, the noise and vibration can bother some dogs.

How to Trim Safely

The biggest fear with nail trimming is cutting the quick — the blood vessel and nerve that runs through the nail. On dogs with clear or white nails, the quick is visible as a pink area inside the nail. On dogs with dark nails, you can’t see it, so you need to trim more carefully.

1. Hold the paw firmly but gently. Don’t squeeze too hard.
2. Trim at a 45-degree angle below the quick.
3. Take small clips rather than cutting a large chunk at once.
4. For dark nails, trim a little at a time and look at the cross-section of the nail. When you see a chalky white ring with a small dark center beginning to appear, stop — the quick is close.
5. Don’t forget the dewclaws. These are the “thumb” nails higher up on the leg. Not all dogs have them, but if yours does, they need trimming too, as they don’t contact the ground and never wear down naturally.

If You Cut the Quick

It happens to everyone eventually. Don’t panic. Apply styptic powder (keep it in your grooming kit) or cornstarch to the nail tip and apply gentle pressure for 30-60 seconds. The bleeding will stop quickly. Give your dog a treat and move on calmly — your reaction sets the tone for how your dog perceives the experience.

Ear Cleaning: Preventing Infections Before They Start

Ear infections are one of the most common reasons dogs visit the veterinarian. Regular ear cleaning helps prevent infections, especially in breeds with floppy ears (Cocker Spaniels, Basset Hounds, Labradors) that trap moisture and limit airflow.

How Often to Clean Ears

• Floppy-eared breeds: Weekly
• Erect-eared breeds: Every 2 weeks
• After swimming or bathing: Always dry ears and clean if needed

Signs of Ear Problems

Watch for these warning signs that indicate a vet visit is needed:

• Redness or swelling inside the ear
• Foul odor coming from the ear
• Excessive scratching or head shaking
• Brown, yellow, or bloody discharge
• Sensitivity or pain when the ear is touched
• Tilting the head to one side

How to Clean Your Dog’s Ears

1. Use a veterinary-approved ear cleaning solution. Never use water, hydrogen peroxide, or alcohol — these can irritate or damage the ear canal.
2. Lift the ear flap to expose the ear canal.
3. Squeeze a generous amount of ear cleaner into the ear canal.
4. Massage the base of the ear gently for 20-30 seconds. You should hear a squishing sound as the cleaner breaks up debris.
5. Let your dog shake their head. This helps bring loosened debris up from the deep ear canal. (Stand back!)
6. Wipe the visible portion of the ear with a cotton ball or gauze pad. Never insert anything into the ear canal — this includes cotton swabs, which can push debris deeper and damage the eardrum.
7. Repeat on the other ear.

Dental Care: The Most Overlooked Grooming Task

According to the AVMA, dental disease affects an estimated 80% of dogs by age 3. Yet most dog owners never brush their dog’s teeth. Untreated dental disease can lead to tooth loss, chronic pain, difficulty eating, and bacterial infections that can spread to the heart, kidneys, and liver. For a complete guide to canine oral hygiene, see our dog dental care guide.

Daily (or Near-Daily) Tooth Brushing

The gold standard for canine dental care is daily brushing with a dog-specific toothpaste and toothbrush. If daily isn’t realistic, aim for at least 3 times per week.

What you need:

• Dog-specific toothpaste (never use human toothpaste — fluoride and xylitol are toxic to dogs)
• A dog toothbrush, finger brush, or even gauze wrapped around your finger

How to brush your dog’s teeth:

1. Let your dog taste the toothpaste. Dog toothpastes come in flavors like poultry, beef, and peanut butter.
2. Lift the lip and brush the outside surfaces of the teeth in small circles, focusing on the gum line where plaque accumulates most.
3. Focus on the back teeth (premolars and molars), which are most prone to plaque and tartar buildup.
4. Work quickly but gently. A 30-60 second session is adequate for maintenance.
5. Praise and reward after each session.

Supplemental Dental Care

In addition to brushing, consider these supplementary options:

• Dental chews: Products with the VOHC (Veterinary Oral Health Council) seal of acceptance have been proven to help reduce plaque and tartar. Look for this seal when choosing dental treats.
• Water additives: Enzymatic water additives can help reduce oral bacteria. They’re not a substitute for brushing, but they’re better than nothing.
• Dental toys: Rope toys and textured rubber toys can provide some mechanical cleaning action during play.
• Professional dental cleanings: Your vet may recommend annual or biennial professional cleanings under anesthesia, especially for dogs prone to dental disease. This allows for thorough cleaning below the gum line and treatment of any dental issues.

Creating a Grooming Routine

Consistency is the key to stress-free grooming. When grooming becomes a predictable part of your dog’s routine, they’re much more likely to tolerate (and even enjoy) the process.

Sample Weekly Grooming Schedule

• Monday: Brush coat, quick teeth brushing
• Wednesday: Brush coat, check ears
• Friday: Brush coat, brush teeth
• Sunday: Full grooming session — thorough brushing, ear cleaning, teeth brushing, paw check
• Every 2-4 weeks: Nail trim
• Every 4-8 weeks: Bath

Starting Young

If you have a puppy, start handling exercises immediately. Touch their paws, look in their ears, lift their lips, and run a brush over them — even if they don’t need actual grooming yet. Pair every touch with treats and praise. A puppy who learns that handling is positive and normal will grow into a dog who tolerates grooming without stress.

Essential Grooming Kit for Every Dog Owner

Here’s what every home grooming kit should include:

• Brush appropriate for your dog’s coat type
• Dog shampoo and conditioner
• Nail clippers or grinder
• Styptic powder (for nail quick accidents)
• Ear cleaning solution
• Cotton balls or gauze pads
• Dog toothbrush and toothpaste
• Grooming wipes for quick cleanups between baths
• Detangling spray for medium and long coats
• Towels dedicated to dog grooming

When to See a Professional Groomer

While home grooming covers the essentials, some tasks are best left to professionals:

• Breed-specific haircuts (Poodles, Schnauzers, Bichon Frise, etc.)
• Severe matting that can’t be safely brushed out
• Anal gland expression
• Dealing with a dog that becomes aggressive or extremely fearful during grooming
• Dogs with special skin conditions requiring medicated treatments

A good professional groomer is a valuable partner in your dog’s care. They can catch skin issues, parasites, and other health concerns that you might miss at home.

Expert Tips for Better Grooming

1. Keep sessions short and positive — especially when introducing new grooming activities. Five positive minutes beats twenty stressful ones.
2. Invest in quality tools. Cheap clippers and brushes make the job harder for you and more uncomfortable for your dog. A good deshedding tool, quality clippers, and a proper brush are worth the investment.
3. Check the paws. Between grooming sessions, regularly check between your dog’s toes for foxtails, thorns, ice balls (in winter), and excessive hair growth. Trim the fur between the paw pads if it gets long enough to trap debris.
4. Watch for seasonal changes. Many dogs shed heavily in spring and fall. Increase brushing frequency during these periods to manage loose fur and prevent matting.
5. Stay calm. Your dog reads your energy. If you’re tense and anxious about grooming, your dog will be too. Approach each session with calm confidence.
6. Know when to stop. If your dog is getting stressed, it’s okay to stop and try again later. Pushing through creates negative associations that make future grooming harder.

You Might Also Like

• Dog Dental Care Guide — Step-by-step guide to brushing your dog’s teeth and preventing dental disease
• Furminator Deshedding Tool Review — Hands-on review of the best tool for double-coated breeds
• How to Choose Dog Food — Good nutrition shows in coat quality
• Golden Retriever Breed Guide — Grooming guidance for one of the most coat-intensive breeds
• French Bulldog Breed Guide — Special grooming needs for a brachycephalic breed
• Dog-Friendly Hiking Trails Guide — Post-hike grooming tips for outdoor dogs
• First Week With Your New Puppy — How to introduce grooming from day one

Frequently Asked Questions